Tentang Sungai Irrawaddy di Myanmar
Jadi mereka berangkat untuk mersakan Irrawaddy, Sungai bersejarah bagi Myanmar, mendayung 550 pertama dengan sebuah kayak. Airnya sedingin es ketika dipegang begitu memasuki kayak merah dekat Myitkina & mendorong kayak menuju arus sungai. Air yang biru samar ini mengalir tenang tapi pasti menuju bukit-bukit di kejauhan.
Kedamaian di sekeliling kita memberi kesan yang salah akan sejarah mutakhir Myanmar. Kini Negara itu dikenal sebagai di mana pemenang hadiah Nobel Aung San Suu Kyi berada dalam tahanan rumah selama 10 dari 17 tahun terakhir ini. Inilah Negara totaliter yang diatur oleh sekumpulan Jendral berkuasa yang pada tahun 1989 merubah nama bekas koloni Britania ini dari Burma menjadi Myanmar, sebuah versi nama sebelum masa colonial negeri itu. Tahun 1990, National League of Democracy (NLD) Suu Kyi memenangi lebih dari 80% kursi pada pemilihan umum. Rezim junta yang berkuasa, menolak menyerahkan kekuasaan, mengabaikan hasil pemilu, serta menumpas seluruh partai oposisi. Tahun 2003, belasan pendukung Suu Kyi dikabarkan terbunuh atau terluka dalam penyerangan “Black Friday” (Jumat Hitam) yang diorganisir para pendukung pemerintah. Sementara itu, laporan-laporan HAM menyatakan adanya bukti pembunuhan serta penyiksaan saat ratusan ribu penduduk desa di komunitas etnik telah dipaksa untuk meninggalkan rumah mereka & pindah untuk mencegah terjadinya berbagai pemberontakan rakyat.
Tentunya sejarah buruk inilah yang menghantui sepanjang Irrawaddy selama perjalanan panjang menuju laut. Ini jugalah penjelasan mengapa pemandu yang disediakan pemerintah, Jiro, yang mengikuti setiap hari dalam perahu bermotor dari belakang, mengatakan sebaiknya jangan bicara soal politik atau agama pada siapapun. Pasti inilah penjelasan mengapa wilayah luas di negeri ini tak boeh dijamah turis. Mereka diarahkan hanya menjejaki rute tertentu mulai dari Ibukota Yangon ke Mandalay hingga ke kuil-kuil Bagan. Menyimpang dari rute in, mendayung kayak sepanjang sepanjang sungai, membangkitkan kecurigaan.
Jiro bekerja untuk Mentri Pariwisata & akan melaporkan ke pos-pos polisi atau intelijen militer sepanjang sungai selama 5 minggu ke depan. Pria ramah serta senang bergaul ini menikah beberapa hari sebelum kedatanganku. Ia mengetahui ini bukanlah bayanganku mengenai perjalanan ini, tetapi tak ada yang bisa ia perbuat. Kami sepakat : Ia berperahu jauh dari aku agar aku dapat mendayung seakan-akan sendirian.
Untungnya, Irrawaddy tak paham sedikit pun tentang politik. Apapun yang terjadi, aku selalu dapat mengandalkannya membawaku. Seakan sungai ini adalah metafora dari ajaran yang membimbing 89% orang Myanmar pemeluk agama Buddha : Semua ada awal & akhirnya. Perairan ini berasal dari es di puncak yang tertutup salju Himalaya di bawah Tibet. Meraka telah mengalir melewati dataran tinggi tertutup rimba & muncul di dataran bagian tengah Myanmar yang terpanggang matahari, di mana mereka akan meneruskan perjalanannya ke laut, akhirnya lepas ke Laut Andaman. Bersandar di sisi sebuah desa, aku menemukan sebuah Kuil mungil yang penuh hiasan di atas sebuah rakit bambu reyot, Kuil pertama dari sejumlah kuil yang sejenis yang akan dijumpai sepanjang sungai. Di dalam nya terdapat sebuah patung perunggu seorang Laki-laki yang tersenyum, menengadah ke langit : Shin U Pa Gota, “Dewa” segala air. Penduduk kampong setempat telah mempersembahkan sesajen bunga-bunga, penganan dari beras, dan gulungan rambut di altarnya
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